Vacationing in Hawaii, George is bullied by the very jealous Surf Wolf, who is king of the beach. Surf Wolf challenges George to a surf-off. George reluctantly accepts, and having never surfed before, takes some lessons.
A fine bit of film, showing the creative process behind the clothing made possible by Almond Surfboards & Designs.
Description: Since Day 1 of Almond’s fairly short history, (5 or 6 years) we have strived to design and make products that we deemed to be essential to our mostly surf-centric way of life. We have spent the first 5 years really emphasizing the surfboard, the most essential of all surf essentials. Along the way we have learned a ton, met a lot of talented people and set our sights on more product-variety. This past year we’ve decided to make a more intentional and direct effort in the soft-goods realm, to sit alongside the surfboards that we will always emphasize. We have spent the last year and a half developing, experimenting, re-developing and launching a small collection of subtly surf-inspired, wearable clothing. Here’s a brief look into what that looks like for us. We’re continuing to grow the line, refine fits, try new washes, etc… but we’re thankful for the progress thus far, and increasingly excited with each new season.
The past hundred years has seen the surfer as the craftsman, the waterman, the burnout, the artist, the activist, and the philosopher – all of which were aiding in the development of a wonderfully nuanced history of wave riders. Birthed by plank-carving Polynesians and popularized by harmonizing beach boys, surfing is undeniably a cultural entity of depth and complexity. The Encyclopedia of Surfing, the most recent project of surf writer Matt Warshaw, is a platform from which to view surfing’s mosaic history and culture – surfer by surfer, surf term by surf term. The site is a compilation of vignettes giving descriptive accounts of individual topics logging surfing history and culture. The concept is exactly the same as an encyclopedia: if you are interested in Reno Abellira, simply search. Warshaw’s project is inventive and vital, providing a space where surfing culture and history can be recorded and remembered.
We are excited to welcome Surf Right to the #StokeHarvester family. SRP (Surf Right project,) is based out of New England; home of the crushing cold.
Sometimes great ideas come to you while you’re in the shower… and sometimes they come in 25°F surf. Todd Meleney, Marcus Wilson and Michael Schaeffer created the brand in 2012, and have been pumping out cool as f*** designs ever since.
To review “Under the Sun” as a surf film wouldn’t give the movie its due credit. The film by the young director of Stoked & Broke and Riding Waves needs to be viewed as a documentary that enlightens and informs. In Sutton’s film he discusses the contrast between Australia’s Gold Coast and Byron Bay. Under the Sun continues to illuminate Sutton as an artist but more importantly we see Sutton growing as a filmmaker who asks his viewers to rethink the conventional ideals of the surfing community.
Juxtaposing Australia’s Gold Coast and Byron Bay, Sutton creates a wide crevasse with the contrasting images of “Competition Surfer” and “Soul Surfer” poised on each divided precipice. First Sutton gives a detailed history and emergence of each group: the greedy commercial industry sprouting from Gold Coast competition surfing and the bongo-drumming hippie pushing organic marmalade from the Byron Bay. Although I use these generalizations and stereotypes, Sutton does a great job of remaining passive and nonjudgmental. These two surfer types are then taken through their evolution into the 21st century. Gold Coast competition surfing grows into a cold and mechanical shit show in which the surfing industry sees an opportunity on which to fully capitalize. And then, surprisingly, Sutton shows the Soul Surfer for his/her true self. A point is made that Soul Surfers cannot live or surf without the aid of sponsors and all the free boards and accessories that arrive at their La Jolla bungalow free of charge. I think this is a truth we tend to disregard due to the free-spirited persona of the Soul Surfer, which we envy. Sutton illustrates soul surfing as something attained by money and commercialism – the very evil for which the Gold Coast competitive surfer is so harshly judged. So what is Cyrus saying? What wisdom is this film trying to impart?
I believe Under the Sun is a film of middle grounds. Even though surf competitions have devolved into events as vapid as Keeping Up With The Kardashians, they still maintain some importance. In the film we hear that surfing competitions are places where young kids can focus their energy and learn social interaction and friendly competition (to say life is void of competition would be foolish). These are valuable skills for the young surfer, and the sport (depending if you ascribe to the idea) keeps the youngsters out of trouble. Also, as is stated throughout the film, surfing competitions allowed surfing to become visible to the outside world and therefore disseminate. Right now next to Lake Erie there is a group of friends shivering around a campfire, drinking seasonal beer, and recapping their day’s session – to me that is a pretty awesome thing. Stoke is meant to be shared and competition surfing did exactly that. And, even though the Soul Surfer jet sets around the world on someone else’s dime and poses nonchalantly, yet consciously, in a dangling palm branch for a photo-op, surfing is still the better because the soul surfer acts as evidence that a greedless, nature-oriented life of surfing is possible. It is a job just like anything else.
There is no need to demonize these two groups, which is why Sutton’s passivity is so important. Even though Sutton lightly brushes on environmentalism and population growth I believe Under the Sun’s true goal is to reveal the whole reality of both the competition surfer and the soul surfer. We tend to lump judgments into categories of right or wrong, black or white but there is a mammoth grey which is inherent in everything. The waves we ride are not concrete and rigid – why should our perceptions of our fellow surfers be? The surfing community has learned and will continue to learn a great deal from both of these groups. Commercialism and … shit…I don’t know…”Hippism”? “Beardism”? “Machado-ism”? Either way we are all surfers under the sun.
Are you a young Adonis who sleeps in the jungle adjacent to a beach with perfectly peeling waves? Or do you have a 70s stash and drive a van with purple shag carpet? Do you ditch first period to burn one at the beach because biology is for dweebs? If so then Fantesea is for you – an authentically grainy film in which only a few survive and only a few keep it alive. Enjoy.
To be honest, I hate gloves. Cumbersome comes to mind. Disconnected. Uncomfortable. For years I refused. And when I did wear them, the only thing I wanted to do was shake my hands feverishly like some kind of inspired spirit fingers performance – trying desperately to free myself from them. Oh, and did I mention that getting them on was no easier than getting them off? A real pain those goddamn gloves were. But when you start surfing in the winter, or the fall for that matter, they become more important. Because unless you’re some sort of Ice Man, like Arnold in that shitty Batman movie, your fingers are gonna freeze. So I caved and bought a pair, some 3mm gloves made by Matuse, or maybe they were made by O’neil. Anyhow. They kept my fingers from freezeing. For awhile. Then everything went to shit. The seams split and I wore a hole right through the palm, and they eventually let so much water in that I may as well have not beer wearing them.
My second set was similar. They might have lasted a little longer, or perhaps I just didn’t care about cold fingers that fall. But they fell apart, and so did my third and fourth pair of paw warmers. Disgruntled I was. “Why the hell can’t someone make a pair of mitts that won’t fall apart so fast?!” “Dude,” a friend replied, “gloves are only good for three months, tops!” Bullshit! I’ve owned wetsuits for longer than I’ve owned cars, longer than I dated my high school girlfriend. So if that shit can stick together so well, why can’t they get their glove glue together?!
Enter the R3. Now you gotta know I was skeptical of these gloves – with that fuzzy white wool on the inside and the rubber cement covered seams. Karissa had owned an earlier iteration of the R3 and they had, like my friend suggested, lasted her just two or three months… tops. But these looked better, well built if you will. And so here I sit, some six months into ownership, wearing a pair of gloves which appear entirely unaffected by the use and abuse they’ve received. They’ve survived sunset sessions in spring, early mornings in May, evenings in August and now October, which is all kinds of cold. And the entire time these gloves have not only kept my fingers from freezing, but provided additional grabability and are easier to get on and off than anything else I’ve owned. 4/5 as far as I’m concerned. We’ll see how the work this winter!
You can pick up your own pair of Patagonia R3 Gloves, here.
Justin Coffey is known to enjoy small waves, strong drinks, motorcycles and misbehaving. He’s also the guy that runs Peanut Butter Coast.